Some essential oils, mostly cold-pressed citrus oils, contain furanocoumarins. When skin carrying these compounds meets ultraviolet light (sunshine or a tanning bed), it can burn, blister or darken in the shape of the patch. This is called phototoxicity. It can happen to anyone and is not an allergy.
Oils to handle with care
- Bergamot (the ordinary kind, not bergapten-free, "FCF")
- Lemon, lime and bitter orange, when cold-pressed
- Grapefruit, when cold-pressed
- Angelica root and cumin seed
Steam-distilled citrus oils generally do not carry these compounds, and bergapten-free bergamot has them removed. The label should say which you have. When it does not say, assume the oil is phototoxic. Our labels name the plant by its Latin name; see how to read our label.
Two simple rules
- Keep leave-on blends with cold-pressed citrus at 0.4% or less. That is about 2 drops per 30 ml of carrier. Published limits differ by oil (bergamot is the strictest at 0.4%; grapefruit and lemon allow more), and 0.4% is the one cautious number that works for all of them.
- No sun or tanning bed on that skin for at least 12 hours after applying. Many sources advise longer, up to 24 hours, for the strongest oils, so when in doubt cover the area or wait a day.
What is fine
- Diffusing citrus oils is not the same as putting them on your skin, and the sun rule is for skin contact.
- Rinse-off products (a bath, a wash) carry a lower risk than leave-on ones, but the same caution applies to the first time you try one.
If skin reacts
Redness or a burn-like patch after sun on skin that had citrus oil: get out of the sun, cool the area with water, and see a health professional if there are blisters or the skin is painful.
Sources
- Tisserand R, Young R. Essential Oil Safety, 2nd ed. Churchill Livingstone, 2014
- Tisserand Institute, safety and learning resources
More guides
- Dilution calculator
- Dilution and the patch test
- Babies, children and essential oils
- Pets and essential oils
- Storage and shelf life
- Choosing a carrier oil
- Using a diffuser safely
- Mixing oils in a diffuser
- How to read our label
Questions about an oil or a blend? aura.elixir@outlook.com
